Phew!

So today entailed a journey to the Mount of Olives and a failed attempt at reaching the Temple Mount. It was a beautiful journey that took us along the ridge from Mount Scopus to the Mount of Olives and offering a beautiful view of Jerusalem on one side and the Jordan Valley on the other.

The view over the gravestones was an amazing one, only somewhat hindered by the waves of tourists who walked by. Yes, yes, I know that technically I am a tourist as well, but I like to think that since I am not wearing a neon colored hat signifying that I am with a group and I have a temporary residence here that I am special. Please? However, one of the benefits of the crowds is that when you show up and have no idea where to go, it is a pretty safe bet that they're going somewhere mildly interesting. In this case, all the places they were going to were closing for noon time services. Being stranded, Mike and I decided to head to the Old City (spitting distance) until the Churches reopened. Just outside the city walls and opposite the Jewish cemetery on the Mt of Olives was a small Arab cemetery. Our interest piqued, we went in.

Before delving into what happened, let me explain a few things:

A) Like most cemeteries, there was only one entrance.
B) Also like most cemeteries, the area was surrounded by a spiked fence to keep unwanted visitors out. Not to mention the HUGE Old City walls.
C) If I've learned anything from reading other travelers' exploits, you avoid crowds when you are in the area of an occupied people.
D) If you have to be in a crowded area, avoid at all costs funeral processions. You have no idea how that person died, and if it was at the hands of a military that is somewhat funded by your country of residence, your presence will not be greatly appreciated.

In case you haven't figured out what happened, right as I was about to pull out my camera and show off my shutter happiness to the residents of the Muslim Quarter, the rushing sound of feet hit our ears as well as shouts and I think muted sorrowful wailing. It took me a second to figure out what was going on, and then a huge crowd of people came rushing through the gate (which was only slightly larger than a doorway) carrying on their head a large green box which held a body. So we moved ourselves as far away from the gate, and thankfully the crowd headed to a different part of the cemetery. We caught a few hostile or confused glances, but luckily that was it.

From there we squeezed out the gate and headed to the Temple Mount, but not before I stopped to get some pepperoni pizza (on Shabbat even!) at a really good restaurant in the Old City. We found the entrance, and were told that the only time we would have a chance at actually getting on to was from 7:30 to 10:30 on Sunday mornings. It'll be rough waking up that early, but definitely worth it.

Thats all for now. Pictures will be up later. Ulpan tomorrow at 9. Blegh.